Crafts of Uttar Pradesh
The Chikankari Embroidery of Lucknow
The delicate art of embroidery traditionally practiced in the city of Lucknow
and it’s environs is known as ‘Chikankari’. The name ‘chikan’
seems to have been derived from the Persian word, either ‘Chikan’,
‘Chikin’ or ‘Chikeen’. It means a kind of cloth wrought
with needle–work. Although it originated as a court craft, today it is
a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity.
Chikan work has a very light, gossamer – like quality. This makes it very
suitable for the seemingly hot climate of the northern plain region. It can
be assumed that Chikankari, using sheer fabrics evolved as a logical answer
to the problem of keeping cool and also providing adornment and beauty to one’s
person or in the surroundings.
The light chikan saris are perfect for summer wear. Men prefer to wear their
chikan kurtas during summer evenings.
There is a popular legend that a courtesan in the Nawab of Avadh’s harem
was a master. He was so impressed by the work, that he started a workshop where
this style of embroidery would be developed further. The Nawab were the setters
of fashion. The other humbler nobles and Zamindars would imitate them in every
way.
Chikankari thus received great impetus during the Nawabi period. The finely
embroidered muslin came to be closely identified with the Nawabi culture and
became an intrinsic part of it. The Chikankari tradition gradually filtered
down the masses of common people and became a part of their daily life.
The source of most design motifs in Chikankari is Mughal. These motifs can also
be seen in the ornamentation of Mughal buildings like the Taj Mahal and the
monuments of Fatehpur Sikri.
There are various stitches used in Chikankari. They vary according to the kind
of designs and materials used. The most frequently used stitch is the satin
stitch. This is a very delicate and minute stitch.
Other stitches like the darning stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch etc. are also
used. All these stitches are sometimes used individually but more often in combination
of two or more together to fill the whole motif. There are minute variations
on these basic stitches and much manipulation in terms of shape and size.
